Heat is a highly debated topic in the natural hair community, not to talk about the myths surrounding the concept. The truth is, we all at some point subjected (or still are subjecting) our hair to unnecessary heat, let’s face it, 😔 with the goal of keeping the hair smooth or manageable for styling. Well, moderation is important when it comes to heat, so, if you are applying heat to your hair almost everyday, I’m sorry, we won’t get anywhere with this topic. I’m not saying “stay away” from heat. In fact, for the last couple of weeks, I’d got to blow dry my hair few times because I simply didn’t have time to air dry. Also, my “wash and gos” last longer when I use heat to set my curls. However, I use “heat protectant” every time I need to use heat. I’m also careful to use “medium” heat and tools that allow me to control the amount of heat my hair and scalp absolves.
The Good
As you may be aware, heat is not always bad for your hair. So let’s talk about some benefits:
Deep conditioning
I find heat useful for deep conditioning. Not only does it help your hair to absorb the nutrients you introduce during the process, but also allows the process to be faster. When I use heat during deep conditioning, I sit under the hooded or bonnet dryer for at least 15-20 minutes, my hair feels great afterwards. My other method is to apply the deep conditioner, cover with shower cap and bonnet overnight (or for some hours). I tend to see noticeable differences between the two processes. In the absence of hooded or bonnet dryer, heat towel in the dryer and place on shower cap, or wrap around hair is cool. This same method is great for oil treatment and steaming if you don’t have a hair steamer.
Drying
While there is a big advocacy for air drying, let’s be honest many of us don’t have the flexibility to walk around with wet hair. What if you need to run quickly to the grocery store? Or you need to go for an event in an hour? Air drying doesn’t work for everybody and is not ideal at all times. Have you had to air dry your twists or braids and find it completely matted? Then using heat will come in handy. Heat helps to evaporate the excess water and to stretch hair without drying your hair and scalp.
The Bad
The effect of heat on your hair depends largely on some factors. When these are checked you are likely to have the best experience for your hair while keeping it healthy.
The Process (How)
When you consistently apply heat directly to your hair without heat protectant you need to be ready for the worst nightmare ever. For others, it has to do with the prolonged periods you apply the heat. For eg. applying loads of heat to sections of your hair is not healthy. On my scalp, sits two sets of textures,😳 maybe three, the front is finer compared to the backside (it’s certainly a bitter sweet experience sometimes 😀 ). I’m very cautious to apply the heat generously to the backside compared to the front otherwise I tend to see lots of breakage. It’s important to always apply the same generous temperature to your hair at all times.
The Tools (What)
When you decide to use heat on your natural hair, think about what styling tools you will be using right from the beginning. It will save you the headache. The temptation will always be there to try “new” and improved tools and versions but “please” “please” think well about it before you use any. For some styling tools its difficult to adjust the settings, and you are usually restricted to a certain temperature, you may have to stay away from such products. Scientist say temperature settings should be below 350 degrees Farhenheit, which implies, anything beyond that “you are cooking or frying your hair“, and it’s very unhealthy. The lower the temperature the better. So before you fall into the temptation to speed up the process and blow the dryer on high heat, or for the super silky look, set the temperature for the flat irons too high, be ready for some aftershocks. Always, check the heat settings of your styling tool. I personally don’t sit under the dryer until my hair is completely dry, I’d stay just long enough until about 80 percent dry. My scalp also can’t stand high heat “at all”.
The Timing (When)
My simple advice, use heat only “when” absolutely necessary. My thoughts – for long lasting styles, “wash and gos”, blow drying” (if necessary) and to style for only those special events. As much as you can, give your hair few breaks from heat – it will thank you later. And instead of everyday or weekly heat exposures, think of switching to biweekly or even apply heat once a month.
The Ugly
If you are using heat on your hair it can possibly be exposed to damage. But that is not the end of the world, heat damage can be repaired. However, you need to avoid heat altogether when:
- Your hair is already damaged: You will need to first focus on healing and stepping up your hair regimen. Applying heat on top of already damaged hair is a recipe for more damage, breakage, and heartache. Save yourself from all these “please” 🙏🏾
- Your hair is thinning in certain areas or breaking: My recommendation – stay away from heat completely. You will need to determine the root cause and allow your hair follicles to naturally heal before applying any additional heat. This will help to solidify your hair routine towards one that is conducive to healthy natural hair.
- You have hair color: There are several “harmless” hair colors out there but you may have to steer clear of heat when using certain types. This includes reading the label of the brands you are using, just in case your hair doesn’t need heat while you still have the color in. Most people stick to temporary hair color and they work fine.
Tips for applying heat
- Moisture, moisture and moisture: You need to ensure there is enough moisture in your shampoo, conditioner and leave-ins, and your hair must be completely moisturized to prevent too much dryness.
- Detangle: Completely detangle all sections before proceeding to apply heat. It helps to prevent breakage
- Dry in sections: Managing hair in sections help to evenly apply heat to sections of the hair
- Heat protectant: Always use heat protectant before applying heat
- Heat settings: Always apply on low-heat first before high heat
Listen to your hair – it needs “heat vacations” too. 😁 🙌🏾 💃🏻
The Curly Beautiful 